Black and mixed-race skin : how to care for it ?
What is your professional background?
I trained as a dermatologist in France before specialising in the treatment of black and mixed-race skin in Paris. I moved to Lausanne in 2013 and joined the Montchoisi Medical Centre in 2022. I also have a consultation for dark skin in the dermatology department of the CHUV.
Are there any differences between dark and light skins?
The only difference that has been demonstrated concerns melanin (colour pigment). The quality, quantity and distribution of melanin in the surface layer of the skin vary according to skin tone. The darker the skin, the higher the proportion of eumelanin (brown to black pigment) compared to pheomelanin (yellow or orange pigment) and the greater its quantity. On dark skin, melanin is also present all the way up the epidermis to the stratum corneum (the most superficial part of the skin), which is not the case on fair skin. A more pronounced tendency to dryness and a difference in skin thickness are often suggested but not proven.
Are there differences in terms of skin ageing, skin cancer and scarring?
Abundant melanin protects darker skin more from UV-induced damage and therefore delays the appearance of the signs of skin ageing (wrinkles, lentigines). Similarly, the darker the skin, the lower the risk of skin cancer. As far as healing is concerned, hyperpigmentation is often observed at the same time as the repair process. There is also a higher prevalence of keloid scars (thick scars that extend beyond the initial site of the sometimes minimal trauma).
Can dark-skinned people expose themselves to the sun without risk?
The darker the skin, the lower the risk of sunburn.
Do you have any specific advice for looking after dark skin?
When it comes to skin care, there's no need to choose specific ranges or ingredients for dark skin. When the skin is dry, a moisturiser for dry skin is sufficient, as is a moisturiser for combination skin if the skin is rather oily. For frizzy hair, it's useful to use specific products (shampoos, conditioners, oils) to keep the hair moisturised and make styling easier.
